In August, the climbers Nils Favre (SUI) and Symon Welfinger (FRA) managed the free walk on the Route Paciencia (8a / 900 meters) in the infamous Eiger North wall. With 24 rope lengths and difficulty level 8a, the route started by Stephan Siegrist and Ueli Steck in 2003 is one of the most difficult and demanding routes in the Alps.
It has since been repeated only by a handful of sailors. Both managed to climb all ropes flash or onsight.
After the two had to move their objects three times in total due to bad weather, a suitable weather window opened at the end of August. In the evening, the signs for a successful approach were still bad, but the rocks dried up overnight.
The two Millet athletes decide to start the project without prior inspection of the route. Thus, the tour planning took place exclusively with the help of existing topos and experience reports.
One of the biggest difficulties besides the constant cold (less than 10 degrees Celsius) was the heavy luggage. In addition to their climbing equipment, they carried in their 75-liter haulbags everything necessary for two nights (portal ledge, sleeping bag, etc.) and above all a lot of provisions and water.
In total, the two climbers needed three days to cross the route.
This meant 16 hours of hard work on the first day until they reached the first bivouac around 8 pm. After a short night, the second day consisted of 18 hours on the rock until night rest around 24 hours. Even though they have to deal with cold, lack of sleep, fog and rockfall, Nils managed to climb the key length with difficulty level 8a.
There is always a bit of a swindle: Nils Favre had to master the four-hour descent without his climbing shoes – they were also lost unnoticed, as was one of his top climbing shoes.
Nevertheless, he was overjoyed when he entered the valley: “Cold, fatigue and the heavy haulbags have brought us to our limits. We had some trouble finding the right beta.
Flashing the key length despite all the hardships was an extraordinary experience. “
ABOUT MILLET
Millet, the specialist for high mountain equipment based in the French Annecy Le Vieux, has been accompanying mountaineering enthusiasts with her passion for almost 100 years.
As a pioneer of innovative and functional products, the company offers the complete range for mountaineering, climbing, skiing and trekking and skiing. Already at the end of the 40’s Millet designed extremely robust and well-thought-out backpacks, which have proven themselves over time on numerous expeditions.
For example, the mountain guides of Chamonix, Grindelwald and Cervino, three of the most renowned mountain guide associations in the world, are also equipped by Millet.
As a main brand, Millet counts together with Lafuma to the Millet Mountain Group, which in turn belongs to the Calida group.
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